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Below we have put together some manuals and tips etc. By reading these you can find answers to most questions we get about repairing and troubleshooting. Often it comes down to a thorough cleaning or a lack of education and knowledge about windshield repair.

Manuals and tips

As far as maintenance goes there is not much needed. If you store the injector standing while doing repairs and wipe the tip clean of resin regularly before storing it in the case, the need for deeper cleaning is not needed as often. The lower white/transparent seal should also be wiped dry from resin.   

We do a simple test of the vacuum to make sure that everything is good to go with seals and lubrication in the injector.

Put your thumb on the tip of the injector where the bottom seal would be when repairing. Turn the screw to the top. You should feel how the vacuum makes the injector stick to your thumb. The suction is strong enough that when you pull the injector there should be a “pop” when it releases.

Now the screw is turned all the way to the bottom. If there is a resistance and there’s a kind of back pressure we need to remove the top of the injector to replace the large upper seal on the inside. While you have the injector open it is good to clean the inside. Wipe it clean with paper and apply a thin coat of Seal Lube on the inside of the cylinder. A new seal can make it slightly harder to turn the screw, because the seals are larger than the cylinder. This is the case because we want the seal to be as tight as possible to get vacuum. There can be some residue from the seal in the bottom of the cylinder when you clean it. It is most often from the small inner seal that also wears down to the right fit.

The screw can be a bit stiff after a change of seals or cleaning. Try some Seal Lube on the inside of the cylinder.

When you apply lubricant, take a small amount on your finger and lubricate the inside. Never apply the lube directly on seals or other places. It should only be a thin coat that covers the inside, any excess should be removed. Assemble the injector and test that its easy to screw again.

The lifetime of the seals is increased if this is a regular routine and it also makes the repairs faster since the equipment is always in good condition.

Ready for more repairs!

Your’e good to go if you recently done the maintenance / function test, if not it is best practice to do this first.

Now its time to start repairing.

A normal damage is done in less than 10 minutes.

If its a stone chip or damage with cracks, we recommend drilling. There is no need to use heat or fire unnecessary. Bulls-eyes or star cracks with large, broad cracks can often be repaired right away.

What to drill - Autoglass Restore
What to drill - Autoglass Restore

Start with applying the mirror on the inside of the glass behind the damage. Moisten the suction cups with glass cleaner like our Formula X-3 Activator and position the bridge centered over the damage. All 3 suction cups needs to press down all the way to the glass. Using glass cleaner makes it easier to change position when finding the center of the stone chip.

Remove the lower seal. Turn the screw about a half turn and fill with only 3 drops of resin. Reapply the lower seal again and turn the screw so the resin touches the seal.

Mount the injector on the bridge over the damage. If the lower seal on the injector is not centered over the impact then readjust the bridge. Level the seal to the glass without pressing hard. Lock the injector with the locking screw so that the height is adjusted correctly against the glass surface. Its seldom needed to press the injector all the way down on the bridge.

Our innovative adjustment against the glass helps the technician to adjust the exact right pressure against the glass with the locking screw regardless of what type of glass and how curved it is.

This adjustment is necessary because too high pressure against the glass can make some windshields to crack more or hinder the resin to flow into the damage.

With that said, you should not push the injector all the way down the bottom if the specific object does not need this. The curve of the glass is different depending on brands and type, and therefore requires different height adjustments. 

Turn the screw fully up and let the injector suck the air out of the damage for about 30 seconds. The vacuum in the chamber will make the air flow through the resin, past the seals and in to the chamber. This helps the resin to flow inside the damage much easier.

Begin lightly turning the screw downwards, the vacuum makes it easy. It almost goes down by itself. Only turn the screw until you see the lower seal expanding slightly and the resin starts filling the damage.

Again, if you press down too hard with the piston during the filling or when aligning the injector against the glass, there is a high probability that the pressure gets too high and the windshield will start to crack unnecessarily. Working with glass requires a light touch and sense. If you see a crack starting to run, decrease the pressure either by adjusting the injector with the screw on the bridge or by backing the injection of resin.

Now you can see the damage filling. Let the pressure work until the damage is completely filled. In some cases you can repeat the procedure with building vacuum and then pressing the resin if the damage is tight and the resin has a hard time flowing inside. If you have used the drill its usually easier to get the resin inside the whole damage. 

To help speed up the process of filling tight cracks, you can also use the Probe to press against the glass to help widen the gap that the resin needs.

When its completely filled, we cure the resin with UV-light during pressure. When you are done and remove the injector it is important that you don’t lay the injector down on its side because that increases the risk of resin getting inside the vacuum chamber. If resin gets in here the large inner seal deteriorate much faster.

After this is done it is time to apply a drop of Pit Filler over the repaired damage with an film tab over it. Then we cure once more. When this is done you remove the pit filler with a razor blade that is angled 90 degrees to the glass as to not scratch the glass.

Clean the window and the repair is done. Do not forget to wipe of any resin from the lower seal and any excess resin from the tip of the injector to prolong the life span of the seals.

Fast tips:

  • Drill cracks. It saves time.
  • A light alignment against the windshield and lock it there. This helps to prevent further cracking.
  • Screw the piston only as far as the lower seal can be seen to swell in the middle.
  • If the damage is tight and doesn’t fill directly, repeat the pull-push procedure. Do not use fire!

Here we will show you how to use the Slide Hammer tool.

It’s used to make tight and small damages wider in a safe and secure way. This tool will help you get a better and nicer repair than before. Making a tight chip or crack wider will help the resin to completely fill the damage.

It is best used with a slightly larger drill bit. Our crackstop drill bit, art. no SD20402 is perfect for this. 

We show this in practice in our training and also what damages this can be used on. It really is an underestimated and great tool!

Support

Above is a tight, star shaped stone chip or damage. These can sometimes be hard to fill and take a lot of time for such a small chip. Prodding can take time and also expand the cracks, some use heat instead. We have Slide Hammer instead.

Start with drilling, but not all the way down to the laminate like normally when drilling. Here it is enough with only the tip of the drill bit, about 0,5 mm.

Get the Slide Hammer and place the tip in the newly drilled hole. Pull the brass colored pin and then release. Sometimes you need to help it down with a little force depending on the glass and damage.

When the pin hits the bottom it makes a light but effective impact on the glass. You should see that the tight crack has turned into a much easier combination chip, or bulls-eye. Since the damage is bigger and more wide it is now much faster and easier to completely fill. And the finished repair looks very good!

This tool were made since we had a high demand from our technicians needed to get closer to the edges.

Remove the plastic screw from the extender and place the extender at the bottom of your bridge. Then fasten it in place with the screw again. You can feel that it sits real tight to the bridge and is very stable. 

A smaller screw is included for locking from the front, and when its needed to be locked from the side you use the screw from the bridge.

This tool seems like a simple bit of metal but is made with precise measurements for stability and an exact angle for the injector to line up with the glass.

MegaVac Extender - Autoglass Restore
MegaVac Extender - Autoglass Restore
MegaVac Extender - Autoglass Restore

Troubleshooting

Mini-Drill or UV-lamp doesn't work

If your drill or lamp doesnt work, the most likely cause is that the glass fuse in the cigarette plug broke. This can be easily fixed by just changing the fuse as shown below. Our 5A Glass fuses have SKU: SD20410

Injector is working badly

Below are some examples on how seals should not look or inside the injector. A probable cause is that the user has not wiped away resin after repairs and this has corroded the seal and made it expand heavily. This makes it much harder to repair of course since the tool does not work as efficiently as intended.

Maintain Your Tools! Don't Forget to also clean resin bottles!
- If not, Your equipment looses efficiency!

This is how it should be with basic cleaning and maintenance. 

Sometimes resin is “cured” on the tip of the injector, use for instance a razor blade to remove this. We have seen cases where users have built up so much material that they could not even mount the injector on the stand.

troubleshooting

Safety data sheet / SDS

Media

Spare parts

Our injector and bridge contains 19 parts. We want our customers to know that we stand behind them and our products, and therefore we offer the possibility to replace parts even on our injector. That an injector would break happens very rarely due to the high quality build and material. Despite this, an unfortunate fall for example could still break or bend it somehow.

Just because of this, we now offer the possibility to change any of the parts of the injector and bridge.

Other systems make you change the whole injector, usually the bridge also. We can replace part by part if needed due to the fact that we manufacture our locally. Better for us, our users and for a sustainable environment!

It is easy to identify the parts by looking at this picture. All parts are in store.

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